The Experience

Between 1876 and 1924, almost one third of Italy's population immigrated to America, spreading and settling across the country. They brought with them ingredients, flavors and techniques from the various regions of Italy. And make no mistake regional differences in food preparation can be diverse. In fact, one could argue that nuances in some common preparations such as ragu can vary by family. 

Over time Italian immigrants created dishes that were based on their regional heritage and overtime as they had access to a wider variety of foods it gave rise to dishes evocative of both Italy and their new American homes. This became Italian-American cuisine. 

But make no mistake as John F. Mariani points out in his very enjoyable 2011 book, “How Italian Food Conquered the World”, “…it was not very long ago that Italian food just about everywhere outside of Italy was regarded as little more than macaroni with red sauce, chicken parmigiana, and “dago red” wines.” He continues, “As an Italian-American familiar with epithets like, “garlic eater”, “spaghetti bender” and “macaroni” I have, over the past four decades, been an attentive witness to the rise in status of Italian food from a low class, coarse ethnic food to the most recognizable, stylish, and influential cuisine in the world.”

I have to admit that when I read these words I was reminded of a time when I at age 10 or 11 was publicly humiliated and accused by a Roman Catholic priest who was the pastor of my parochial grammar school of serving, “that guinea church” as an altar boy.

The Italian immigrant women who helped to found the Immaculate Conception Parish in North Tarrytown, New York are pictured here. I served the parish as an altar boy in my youth. My maternal grandmother Anna is seated in the second row.

This past December we had the pleasure of taking the Arthur Avenue Food Tour led by co-owner Danielle Oteri. She and her husband Christian Galliani founded Arthur Avenue Food Tours to share their love for this neighborhood as well as their passion for Italian food and wine. 

Danielle’s food and travel writing is well known and the tour was a treat despite the cold December temperatures. 

Having attended Fordham Preparatory School which is barely a stone’s throw from the neighborhood I thought knew its make-up fairly well. Danielle’s insights were eye popping especially for someone like me who has enjoyed Italian cooking and Italian heritage for most of my adult life. This tour is a must for anyone who shares these interests.

For the completely uninitiated the Arthur Avenue neighborhood in the Bronx is New York's real Little Italy. It is also worthy of noting that today many of these purveyors have an online presence and many orders can be shipped.
 

You can't really go wrong on Arthur Avenue with family-owned shops providing Italian goods, sweets and sausages to both the community and eager visitors. As Danielle pointed out during our tour many of the shop owners also own the buildings and have owned them for decades. As such they pass on savings to their customer in the form of much lower prices for high quality Italian foods and products. A few highlights include; Casa Della Mozzarella (604 E 187th St.) and Borgatti's Pasta (632 E. 187th) (photo above), before turning onto Arthur Avenue for treats like the fresh bread at Madonia Brothers Bakery (2348 Arthur Ave.) the olive bread is made fresh every two hours, or dry specialty goods from Teitel Brothers (2372 Arthur Ave.) There is also a condensed market, the Arthur Avenue Retail Market (2330 Arthur Ave.) which brings many of the delights of the neighborhood together under one roof. 

For dining there are many choices. Favorites include; Dominicks's (2335 Arthur Ave.). This classic restaurant has no menus, no dessert, and is consistently named the neighborhood's favorite. If you insist on sweets, however,  the neighborhood is overrun with sweet options; shops like Egidio Pastry (622 E 187th St.) pictured above and founded in 1912; Roberto's (603 Crescent Avenue, 718/733-9503) which is considered by some the best Italian restaurant in New York City.; or Tra Di Noi (622 E 187) for an intimate trattoria dining experience.

I will be writing about the incredible food and recipes created by many of the women pictured above in future blogs.